The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand - NZICA
The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand

The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand

By Chris Newey


1931 - 1940


The Frigidaire Effect


Electric refrigerators, freezers and milk shake machines were allowing even small retailers to offer a range of chilled and frozen dairy treats:


Frew's Dairy, 17 Victoria Rd, Devonport, ca. 1930. William Frew owned and operated the business between 1927 and 1939.
It became one of the first Auckland Tip Top Milk Bars in 1938.
- Devonport Historical Society and Museum collection.


Commercial "automatic electric cabinets" by Frigidaire had been available since 1927:


Frigidaire trade advertisement, Auckland Star, 28 September 1927.

- The NZ Ice Cream Manufacturers' Assn. had arranged a bulk purchase price for refrigerated cabinets for Members - this may explain the above reference to "a reduction in cost".

In 1930, Frigidaire had synthesized Freon, a synthetic refrigerant (chlorofluorocarbon or CFC) leading to the development of safer, smaller, lighter, and cheaper refrigerators.

At it's AGM in June 1937, Peters Ice Cream announced its conversion to electrical refrigeration:

"Mr Ross said that in the coming year the company was going to do away with ice and salt packing and replace it with all-electric equipment. All the company's customers would have refrigerated cabinets, and it was also proposed to introduce modern methods of transport similar to those used in the United States. A car equipped with its own refrigerating unit would be used. This would be a great improvement and would mean a saving in transport charges of £15 to £20 a week."

The free supply of a refrigerated cabinet became part of the ice cream manufacturer's distribution deal, to lock the retailer into their brand. In February 1938, Peters Ice Cream was advertising in the NZ Herald,

"100 new retailers required for our next season 1938-1939. We supply you with Electric Automatic Cabinet free of charge. Book yours now to be assured of our Agency."

1937 - Peters Ice Cream Co. (N.Z.) Ltd in Auckland commissioned the country's first two automatic refrigerated ice cream transport trucks, built by D. McL. Wallace Ltd.


Peters Ice Cream built NZ's first mechanically refrigerated truck, 1937.
- The Frostee Digest, NZICA archives.


Timeline: the 30s


1931
- the President of the Ice Cream Manufacturer's Assn. expressed regret at the Napier earthquake catastrophe, and sympathy to member company Hawkes Bay Frozen Supplies Ltd which had suffered heavy financial loss. The company was not required to pay its 1931 subscription.

1932 - New Zealand's annual ice cream production is reported to be 600,000 gallons (2.7 million litres) in newspaper coverage of the annual NZ Ice Cream Manufacturers' Association conference.


Royal Ice Cream truck amongst the crowds gathered at Taieri to see Kingsford Smith and his pioneering aircraft "Southern Cross", March 1933.
- E. A. Phillips collection, Hocken Library.


1933 - Apex Ice Cream Co. began operations from its factory at 25 Manchester Street, Christchurch.

Legend: Apex


Apex Ice Cream was launched in 1932 by George Gourley and C. McFadden.

Gourley had experience with Perfection Ice Cream and from a tiny factory in Peterborough St., Christchurch, they intially employed salesmen to sell direct at fairs, picnics and outdoor functions.

Eventually the team built Apex into one of the city's big three ice cream brands.

The business moved to a larger factory on Manchester St in 1935 and then built a brand new factory on Durham St in 1954.

More about Apex ...

 

Apex factory, 1932
- Frostee Digest.

1933 - Peters Ice Cream (NZ) Ltd, who already operated factories in Auckland (Newmarket), Hamilton and Whangarei, purchased ice cream factories in Rotorua and Whakatane from the Arawa Dairy Company Ltd.

Peters was established in New Zealand in 1930, probably an offshoot of the Australian (NSW) company of the same name. It had already taken over the New Polar Ice Cream business in 1932 and was operating from their old premises in Teed St..


Peters Ice Cream Newmarket factory, 10 Teed St, Newmarket, with delivery trucks, 1936.
- Auckland Star advertisement.

Legend: Trans-Tasman Brands


The appearance of the Australian brand Peters on the New Zealand market in 1930-31 followed newspaper reports of the enormously popular public flotation of Peters American Delicacy (Victoria), Limited, an offshoot of the Sydney Peters company:

'There was an unprecedented rush for shares, giving rise to excited scenes reminiscent of the days of the gold and silver ''booms."'

The name of the new New Zealand business and use of the same by-line "The Health Food of a Nation" suggests that Peters Australia had some involvement, probably licencing the use of the Peters brand.

It would be the first of many ice cream business ventures across the Tasman, in both directions, leaving behind a confusing legacy of brands and company ownership.


More about Trans-Tasman ice cream brands.

 

Peters Ice Cream, 1938

October 1935 - The Robinson Ice Cream Co. Ltd opened their Grey Lynn factory extension,which doubled the area and resulted in the largest and most modernly-equipped ice cream factory in New Zealand. Their 1936 product range listed Robinson's Pure Ice Cream, Eskimo Pies, Snow Ice, Rainbow Blocks, and Real Fruit Ice Cream.

The '30s saw the country's first Labour government, a new wave of socialism, and increased recognition of worker's rights.

In 1936 the Ice Cream & Related Trades Union was registered, and by November of that year, negotiations over pay and conditions had already broken down and were before the Conciliation Commissioner.

An Award was finally agreed by March 1938 (for employees of ice cream manufacturers within a 25 mile radius of Wellington), the main features of which were a working week of five and a half eight-hour days in summer, and four and a half eight-hour days in winter. Minimum weekly rates of pay were: - lce Cream Maker, £6; Assistant Ice Cream Maker, £5 5s; ice cream storemen, £5; general hands, £4 10s; youths under 17 years of age, £1.

1937 - The New Zealand Herald published an article on 6 November titled "In an Ice Cream Factory - The History of These Tasty Delights", "Specially Written for Boys and Girls by OLGA P. MEYER":

Ice-cream really begins as milk; really good creamy milk, to which is added a certain amount of sugar and gelatine.

Each morning fresh milk is mixed with these other things, and put into a big tank where it is pasteurised (which means heating gradually up to 145 degree Fahrenheit to destroy germs). The tank has what is known as a water-jacket; that is to say, it really has double sides, between which water circulates. When the water is heated, and the required temperature for pasteurisation reached, cold water is turned on until the mixture in the tank is about 110 degrees Fahrenheit.

This mixture is called "raw mix," which then passes into a "viscoliser," which is a machine working under pressure of three thousand pounds to the square inch, and which splits up the little fat globules, giving the mixture its smooth texture.

In pipes the "raw mix" then passes into a cooler, where an intricate system of piping is surrounded by water, and from here, still in pipes, the mixture is passed into an aging vat. Here the water-jacket has an ammonia coil in it too, and as this cools it more than water alone would, the temperature quickly falls from about 60 degrees to 42 degrees.

From twenty-four to seventy-two hours the "raw mix" remains in this vat, and from here it passes into a churn where it is whipped up, and flavouring added if desired.

It is an interesting fact that from the time the milk is poured into the first tank, until the mixture reaches the churn, it travels all the time in enclosed pipes.

From the churn it is put into cans of various sizes, holding from one gallon to five gallons, and then it is placed in very cold rooms to harden. The temperature of these rooms is from zero to ten degrees below, so you can imagine how chilly that would be!

After about ten hours of this, the icecream is ready to go out into the van for delivery to the shops. These vans are specially made, and have very thick cork-lined walls, to keep out any heat that might penetrate and soften the ice-cream.

I think everyone knows what happens to ices after they reach the shops!


Ice Cream, The Health Food



Peters Ice Cream advertisement, Auckland Star, 19 December 1936.


Ice cream's health-giving properties were a major selling point, especially as the country emerged from the Great Depression. Ice cream, as a dairy product, was considered to have a high food value, and claims were made that it was “extremely valuable … in some of the most serious forms of illness and in convalescence.”

1937 - In a world first, the first Labour government, in an effort to improve the health of young New Zealanders (and use up surplus milk), had introduced a scheme to supply free milk to schoolchildren.

In what could have been an even more popular public health breakthrough, it was proposed in December 1938 that instead of milk, ice cream be given free to children in schools. Unfortunately for our grandparents, this far-sighted idea wasn't taken up by the government, but at the time the Evening Post reported:

Mr. W. R. Nicol. chairman of the Wairarapa Milk Committee, favours the proposal and considers that the supply of ice-cream would be well worth trying as an experiment. He pointed out that it would cost about £3000 to provide the necessary equipment to enable milk to be supplied to the school children under the desired conditions, whereas it should be possible to handle ice-cream much more cheaply than that.

He intended to discuss the matter with Mr. J. Robertson, M.P. If the proposal is adopted there is no question as to its popularity with the children.

In making the suggestion in the first place, Mr. Russell said ice-cream had a richer food value than milk, it was readily digested, children liked it, it was easy to store and distribute, and there was no waste.


The Modern Milk Bar


10 October 1935
- The original Tip Top Milk Bar, was opened at 36 Manners St., Wellington, by Len Malaghan and Bert Hayman's company Health Foods Ltd., selling only ice cream and milkshakes.

The Evening Post reported that it was "Wellington's first milk bar", following the popularity of this type of business overseas.

" Milk and ice cream are basis of almost all the many varieties of drink obtainable at the bar, which is equipped with modern electrical devices for the freezing and mixing of the drinks. It is anticipated that the milk required for it will be between 200 and 300 gallons a week."

Legend: Tip Top


When two friends, dairy technologist Len Malaghan and cafe owner Bert Hayman, opened a milk bar at 36 Manners St, Wellington, it was thought to be the first shop in New Zealand to sell only ice cream and milk shakes.

The name of the new business was Health Foods, Ltd and their ice cream and milk shake brand was "TIP TOP". It was a huge success and more milk bars soon followed.

For the first year their ice cream was supplied from Dunedin, but in July 1936 the Tip Top Ice Cream Company was registered as a manufacturing company, with a new factory on Waterloo Quay.

The company would rapidly grow into the country's largest manufacturer and longest-enduring ice cream brand.

More about Tip Top...

 
The original Tip Top Milk Bar, 36 Manners St
The first Tip Top Milk Bar, 36 Manners St., Wellington

The term "milk bar" had been in use for some time, and by the mid-30s, most milk bars were following the fashion for serving flavoured milk as a cold, healthy drink. Other earlier "milk bars" such as the Oasis in Auckland promoted hot milk drinks rather than cold.

However, it seems likely that the Tip Top Milk Bar was the first shop in New Zealand to sell only ice cream and milk shakes.

Tip Top's claim to be the first in Wellington was disputed at the time by Gates Ltd Lounge & Milk Bar, which had already operated in Wellington for over 20 years, however, Gates did not sell the combination of milk shakes and ice cream that came to define the American-style Milk Bar as we now know it.


Health Foods (NZ) Ltd. Tip Top Milk Bar, Courtenay Place, Wellington, ca. 1936
- Dominion Post.

The instant success of the business led to expansion. A second Tip Top Milk Bar was opened on Lambton Quay in March 1936, managed by Bert's brother Gordon Hayman and his wife.

In May, Health Foods New Zealand was registered with a capital of £15,000. It acquired the Wellington shops and Bert's shop in Dunedin, and began to expand into other areas.

By the end of 1937 there were six Health Foods (NZ)-operated Tip Top Milk Bars in central Wellington, two of them in Cuba St.


Advertisement promoting Wellington's Milk Bars, Evening Post, 19 January 1938


Tip Top milk bars were also opened in Eastbourne, Upper Hutt (1937), Blenheim, and around the lower North Island.

The Sunshine Milk Bar in Nelson acquired the Tip Top agency for Nelson Districts in 1936, and the Black & White Milk Bar at 108 Cuba St, Wellington, was taken over by Health Foods in December 1937.

In July 1936 the Tip Top Ice Cream Company was registered as a manufacturing company, and a factory was opened on the site of the Co-operative Dairy Producers Freezing Co. Ltd's cool stores on Waterloo Quay in central Wellington.

May 1938 - Tip Top Ice Cream Company Auckland Limited was launched, with Tip Top Ice Cream Company (Wellington), Health Foods (New Zealand) Ltd, and Len Malaghan as major shareholders.

A factory was built at 20 Dunkerron Avenue, Epsom, and the first Auckland Tip Top Milk Bar was opened by Health Foods (Auckland) Ltd. that year at 53 Queen St:


The first Auckland Tip Top Milk Bar, lower Queen Street shopping feature,
NZ Herald, 28 September 1938


1939 - The Newjoy Ice Cream Company Ltd was established.

Legend: Newjoy


After having made Phantazzi ice cream in Invercargill for several years, Max Simon moved to Dunedin in 1939 and established Newjoy Ice Cream, with a factory at 381 Cumberland St., not far from the Cadbury factory.

The business distributed around the Dunedin area, and by rail as far as Invercargill and Oamaru.

Son Brian joined the business and went on to become legend of the industry in his own right.

Newjoy has one very particular (and controversial) claim to fame ...

More about Newjoy ...

 

Brian Simon with Newjoy refrigerated ice cream truck, early 1950s.
 - Simon family collection, via Shona McCahon.




1941 - 1950

1921 - 1930



Sources, references and related sites:

Archives New Zealand:
http://archives.govt.nz/

Devonport Historical Society and Museum collection.
www.devonportmuseum.org.nz

Dictionary of New Zealand Biography:
www.teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/5m29/1

NZ Ice Cream Assn. archives.

Papers Past (National Library of New Zealand digitised newspapers database):
http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/

New Zealand Ice Cream Manufacturers' Association (NZICA) Oral History Project; held at NZICA archives and Alexander Turnbull Library.
- Shona McCahon, Oral historian.

The Early Tip Top Story, Tip Top archives

Tip Top Ice Cream Co.:
www.tiptop.co.nz


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