The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand - NZICA
The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand

The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand

By Chris Newey


1891 - 1910


Ice at Home



5 September 1896 - Mr Max Kreissig of Wellington patented his ‘improved ice safe’, and began selling this latest appliance for the home storage of ice and chilled foods. His ice chest, awarded medals at the 1897 Auckland and Wellington Exhibitions, reduced ‘ice consumption by one third’ and gave ‘several degrees lower temperature’. Prices started at seven shillings and sixpence.


Max Kreissig’s 1896 improved ice safe, Patent 8825.
c is the compartment where ice was introduced and water drawn off with the tap (c2).
- Archives NZ ABPJ Series 7396 Acc W3835 Box 74, via BUILD.


Max Kreissig's Ice Chests advertisement, Evening Post, 10 January 1900


The Ice Cream Hawker


1896
- On February 18th 1896 a "Persian lolly and ice cream vendor" named Louis Hoftinally was plying his trade in Wellesley Street, Auckland. We know this through newspaper reports of a court case involving a driver who had accidentally backed his heavily laden, horse-drawn hay cart into the ice cream cart and demolished it!

1903 - In this year Sali Mahomet, Christchurch's iconic "Ice Cream Charlie", began making ice cream and selling it from his red, white and gold ice cream cart in Christchurch's Cathedral Square.

Legend: Ice Cream Charlie

1903 - In this year Sali Mahomet began making ice cream and selling it from his red, white and gold ice cream cart in Christchurch's Cathedral Square.

By 1907 he was manufacturing it in his own electric-powered "dairy" (a stand-alone building behind his house) at 69 Caledonia Rd., St. Albans.

A horse and cart would deliver one hundred weight (42kg) blocks of ice from the Canterbury Frozen Meat Company each morning. Together with salt, the ice was used to freeze the ice cream, and for packing around the ice cream to transport it into the Square and keep it frozen during the day.

More about Sali Mahomet, Christchurch's original Ice Cream Charlie ...
 

Sali Mahomet and ice cream cart, ca. 1903.
- Ferrymead Heritage Park.

Sali Mahomet became a Christchurch city institution and continued to sell ice cream in the Square until 1942.

Newspapers of the day record applications for licenses to sell ice cream from several individuals, debates over the virtues (or otherwise) of the various applicants, prosecutions and discussions of their nuisance value in impeding roads and footpaths around the cenral City. Others included Abdul Boreham, Soloman Shah and fellow ‘Assyrian’ Charles Abraham.

It seems Christchurch had a long tradition of ice cream vendors, including a Mrs McKeown of Sydenham and Oxford Terrace, and Archie, who for many years had an elaborate barrow complete with awning near the old Clock Tower in Litchfield St. Archie's Deluxe Special sold for threepence - vanilla ice, raspberry jelly and fresh cream, served on a glass dish.


Ice cream vendor, Queen's Gardens, Dunedin, 1906
- Hocken Collections, Hardwicke Knight papers. Ref: MS-4171/0397.


Ice cream vendor, corner Customhouse Quay and Grey St., Wellington, ca. 1910
- Darian Zam.

References can be found to ice cream vendors in Lyttelton (1909), and at East End Beach, New Plymouth in 1910.


Horse-drawn ice cream cart, Wellington, ca. 1910
- Frostee Digest.


Newspapers also record an ice cream vendor who pushed his barrow around Auckland in the early 1900's, timing his rounds to arrive at the front gate of the Boys Grammar School in Symonds Street at lunch-time, and seen selling door-to-door around College Hill.


The Problem With Sunday


It is ironic, given the general acceptance that the word "sundae" arose from ice cream dishes originally designed to be eaten on a Sunday, that ice cream sellers and manufacturers found this the most difficult day of the week to do business.

Sundays were seen as days of rest, not commerce, and many held the opinion that such frivolous activities as eating ice cream were a distraction from more proper Sunday responsibilities.

In response to religious criticism of the consumption of "sinfully" rich ice cream sodas on Sundays, American entrepreneurs took out the carbonated water and invented the ice cream "Sunday" in the late 1890's. The name was eventually changed to "sundae" to remove any connection with the Sabbath.

At the turn of the century, the sale of ice cream was still officially seen as a non-essential activity, and to sell ice cream on a Sunday was in contravention of the Trading laws.

1908 - A Press Agency report appeared in several newspapers on 1 March:

At the Auckland Police Court, Louie Rosina, Michael McLaughlin, and George Rowe, all proprietors of soft drink and ice cream establishments in Hobson-street, were required to explain their contravention of the Shops and Offices Act on Sunday, 16th inst., by having their premises open for business.

Sergeant Eales was passing down the street about the time people came out of church, when his attention was attracted by the issuing from Rosina's shop door of children, all absorbed in the demolition of ice cream wafers. Rosina's shop was visited by the sergeant, and the owner warned, but a few minutes later the ice cream exodus was going on again merrily.

Each of the three shop owners was fined £1 and court costs.

By 1910, the laws appear to have been changed to allow the sale of ice cream on Sundays, but only "for consumption on the premises". In a letter to the Editor of the Manawatu Times, on 29 November, a Mr W. J. Culver initiated a heated debate when he argued that:

... most of the children who spend their pennies on ice creams are given these pennies to take to Sunday School and for use in the Services of God, therefore if those pennies are devoted to any other use than the purpose for which they are intended, they are as deliberately stolen as if they were taken out of the till or from another person's pocket.

... But the receiver is as bad, and in some cases worse than the thief, and I have no hesitation whatever in saying that the Sunday vendors of ice cream and lollies are the worst sinners of the two. Not only are they receivers of stolen money but they encourage the children to commit the theft and are responsible, I believe in many instances for a child beginning its downward career towards the saddest of all ends - the gaol.


New Zealand's restrictive Sunday trading laws continued to be a problem for ice cream manufacturers well into the 1930s - it was illegal for them to deliver ice cream on Sundays, and it was illegal for retailers to sell ice cream on Sundays unless it was "consumed on the premises".

The Sunday Trading laws were not changed to permit the sale of ice cream for consumption off the premises until 1955.


Early Manufacturing


Larger scale commercial production of ice cream involved freezers that were essentially bigger versions of the original hand-cranked churns, but with the mechanical effort required provided by either steam, or increasingly, electricity.

Legend: Astrella's


Thought to be Auckland's first ice cream manufacturer, Nicola Astrella began producing ice cream by hand churn and selling from a hand cart in 1909.

In 1910 he built a factory at 87 Lincoln St, Ponsonby and by the early 1920s was claiming to be the largest producer in the country.


Astrella's advertisement, February 1923

 

Astrella's advertisement, 1928

 

Astrella's advertisement, 1939


Astrella Dominion Ice Cream Co., merged with New Polar Ice Cream in 1930.

Nicola Astrella passed away 30 June 1937 but the Astrella's brand continued on until at least 1939.


Sali Mahomet making ice cream in his 'dairy' behind his house at 69 Caledonian Road, St Albans, ca. 1907
- Christchurch City Libraries File Reference CCL PhotoCD 18, IMG0041.


Christchurch ice cream manufacturer Sali Mahomet operated an electrically powered dairy (shown above) manufacturing ice cream from 1907. He is shown leaning on a small hand-cranked ice cream churn, while either side of him in the photo are two large belt-driven churns, with a mix-making tank in between.

Milk and cream was supplied by the Tai Tapu Dairy Company, and flavour syrups by wholesale druggist H F Stevens.

A horse and cart would deliver one hundred weight (42kg) blocks of ice from the Canterbury Frozen Meat Company each morning.

Ice and salt was used to freeze the ice cream, made in four belt-driven Westinghouse brand churns, two of which can be seen in the photo above.

Ice and salt was also used for packing around the ice cream to transport it into Cathedral Square, and keep it frozen during the day.

More about Sali Mahomet, Christchurch's original Ice Cream Charlie ...



1911 - 1920

1840 - 1890



Sources, references and related sites:

Auckland Libraries

Christchurch City Libraries

Ferrymead Heritage Park
www.ferrymead.org.nz

From ice to refrigerators, by Nigel Isaacs. BUILD magazine.

International Dairy Foods Association

Lost Christchurch:
http://lostchristchurch.org.nz/icecream-charlie-icecream-vendor-cathedral-square-c-1930

National Library

NZ Ice Cream Assn. archives, and "Frostee Digest" journals, 1943-1972.

Papers Past (National Library of New Zealand digitised newspapers database):
http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/

Te Ara - the Encyclopedia of New Zealand


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