The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand - NZICA
The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand

The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand

By Chris Newey


1911 - 1920


The Beginnings of the Ice Cream Industry


Ice cream manufacturing as we now know it was certainly underway by 29 December 1911 when an article appeared in the Evening Post describing production at the Ambrosia Ice Cream Company in Wellington:

Ambrosia it is claimed that it is made of pure pasteurised cream and free from chemicals of any sort.
There are some sixty varieties of frozen dainties which the Ambrosia Company can supply.

The ice cream is made under scrupulously clean conditions, as a reporter of 'The Post', who visited the factory, saw for himself. It is kept twenty-four hours in the ice chamber before being sent out, and being mixed by machinery is entirely untouched by hand in the process of manufacture. The Ambrosia ice cream is sent out in such a condition as to ensure its appearance on the table in first-class condition.

It is put up in lots of one gallon and upwards.


1912 - The Robinson Ice Cream Company Ltd was established at 22 James St., Arch Hill, Ponsonby in Auckland.

Legend: Robinsons


The Robinson Ice Cream Company Ltd was established in 1912.

The Robinson family came from Todmorden, Lancashire, England, where they had been making ice cream since 1878. Ted Robinson founded the Auckland company, originally manufacturing in a small shed on the corner of Putiki and Waima Streets, Arch Hill. He was later joined by childhood friend Jim Bentley.

The Robinson Ice Cream Company was registered as a public company in 1924 with a capital of £36,000.

Robinsons began manufacturing Eskimo Pies in Auckland in 1925 and obtained sole rights to manufacture and distribute them in the Auckland province in 1929.

By the 1930s, Robinsons had grown to be the largest ice cream business in the country.

Robinsons were taken over by Tip Top Ice Cream (Auckland) in 1953.
 



NZ Herald, 19 November 1926

The Marble Bar


In the early 1900's, ice cream was also sold, along with milkshakes, sodas, fruit drinks, fruit salads, coffee and confectionery, in ornate American-styled ice cream parlours and "marble bars":


New York Marble Bar and Ice Cream Parlor, Brisbane, 1912.
- State Library of Queensland, 6841.


"Following a trend there is no resisting, one born of modern tastes and conditions, there has of recent years sprung up in our midst a kind of glorified soft drink and ice cream cafe, which have become part of the life of a large section of the younger generation. The genesis of the business lay in the American soda fountain. With the aid of that ingenious machine and a variety of syrups, very palatable drinks were concocted and proved to be very serious, rivals to the traditional ginger-beer and lemonade of the soft drink trade. To a variety of cooling drinks were added an appetising array of fancy ice-cream, which strike pleasingly on the palate." - Dominion, 30 September 1916, on the opening of the new Marble Bar, Manners Street, Wellington.

12 October 1911 - Advertisement in the Grey River Argus:

The American Parlor
R. LOUISCH Proprietor.
TAKES this opportunity of announcing to the public of Greymouth that commencing on
SATURDAY NEXT, September 2nd, 1911,
he will provide at the Parlor the following:
Vanilla Ice Cream, Apricot Ice Cream, Biscuit Ice Cream, Chocolate Ice Cream, Fruit Ice Cream, Ginger Ice Cream, Pine Apple Ice Cream, Raspberry Ice Cream, and Strawberry Ice Cream; also Fruit and Water Ices, the same flavour as the Ice Creams for the folk who do not care for ice cream.
The Parlor is now under different Supervision than previous years.
A TRIAL SOLICITED.
(Opposite Town Hall, Mackay Street)


Ice cream parlor, Stafford Street, Timaru, 1915.
- Ref: 1/2-107025-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand.


The Le Grand marble bar opened in Gisborne in 1916, and according to the Poverty Bay Herald:

" The marble bar itself will be furnished with a marble bar counter, 38ft in length, finished in ltalian Carara white marble, ornamented with base and pedestal of New Zealand greenstone. Behind it will be an equally elaborate and up-to-date buffet, reaching to a height of 12ft, complete with all the latest fittings, with marble top, extensive mirrors, and surmounted by an artistic canopy, ornamented by massive columns and lead light decoration. The latter will depict a Dutch scene, and will be illuminated by 22 electric globes."


Marble Bar Menu, 1916. [Menus, mainly for celebratory dinners. 1910-1919].
- Ref: Eph-A-DINING-1916-01-centre. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. http://natlib.govt.nz/records/22716523


Home-made Ice Cream


The home supply of ice, and availability of ice chests, opened the way for keen cooks to make their own ice cream.

Recipes for home-made ice cream, from an advertisement in the Wanganui Chronicle, 7 March 1913:

 ABSOLUTELY SAFE ICE CREAM .
MADE WITH Highlander Condensed Milk.
• - READ THESE RECIPES: - •

HOW TO FREEZE WITHOUT A MACHINE.
Obtain some ice, break into small pieces and put into a bucket about two or three inches. On this sprinkle some coarse salt. Set a billy-can on this and pack between the vessels alternate layers of ice and salt. Pour the prepared mixture into the billy-can, put a lid on and cover with some ice and salt. Occasionally the lid must be removed and the mixture stirred.

VANILLA ICE CREAM,
Ingredients - 1 tin Highlander Milk, 1 1/2 pints water, 3 yolks of eggs, half a teacup sugar, 1 teaspoonful vanilla essence, the juice of 1 lemon.
Method - Boil the milk and water together. Beat up the yolks and mix with the sugar, vanilla and lemon juice, add to this the boiled milk and water. Put back on the fire and stir till thick. If desired thicker, a little cornflour may be added (1 dessertspoonful) when cold, freeze as directed.

PASSION FRUIT ICE CREAM.
Ingredients - 1 tin Highlander Milk, 25 passion fruit, 1 teacup sugar, 1 1/2 pints hot water, 1/2 pint cream.
Method - Mix the niilk with the hot water, and pour half on the fruit and sugar. Let it boil long enough to dissolve the sugar. When cool, add the remainder of the milk and the cream. Put into the freezer for about an hour.

NOTE — USE ONLY HIGHLANDER MILK. YOU CAN DEPEND UPON IT


Ice Cream Quality and Standards


Two women eating ice cream, 1914.
- Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. Women. Kidman, Ian :Photographs of World War 1914-1918. Ref: 1/4-027510-F.


In the early part of the Century, a number of overseas food poisonings related to ice cream had been reported in the newspapers, and there had also been growing concern about adulteration and cheapening of products sold as "ice cream" with the addition of thickeners such as cornflour.

In January 1913, over 200 cases of "ptomaine poisoning" were reported in Wanganui, "practically all" traced to a single ice cream shop. "Ptomaine poisoning" is what we would now call food poisoning; acute gastrointestinal illness, in this case probably caused by bacterial contamination of the cream used, according to the Health Inspector's report.

By 1915, the government had put in place regulations to control the composition of the product sold as "ice cream". These regulations were administered by the Health Department.

1 May 1915
- A Health inspector appears to have had a field-day in Christchurch - the Press reported several food-related prosecutions, including four ice cream sellers who were prosecuted by the Health Department for selling ice cream that did not comply with the regulations.

In each case, the primary offence was selling "ice cream" with milk fat levels below the legal standard of 10%. The standard fine on conviction was 5 shillings and costs.

In another case, this one in Whangarei, the sub-standard milk fat content was said to be due to the defendants' "mis-understanding of the term 'milk-fat' which is not known in this district", and the addition of pure cream in the belief that it was pure butterfat.


1918 - "Mac" McKinnon began making ice cream for his father's Marble Bar, the first shop in Whangarei to install an ice cream cabinet.


McKinnon's Marble Bar, Whangarei


1919 - Frederick Charles Rush-Munro , originally a confectioner, opened the third evolution of his Rush Munro business at 181 - 187 Karangahape Road, Auckland, featuring cafeteria ("help yourself style" service), light lunches, soda fountain and ice cream.

Legend: Rush Munro's


Englishman Frederick Charles Rush-Munro, having learned the skills of the confectionery trade from his father, opened the original Rush Munro confectionery shop at 161-163 Ponsonby Road, in Auckland around 1914.

By 1917, the business had re-located to 142 Karangahape Road, advertising as "Rush Munro's Soda Fountain".

Then, in 1919, the Rush Munro business moved to 181 - 187 Karangahape Road, complete with cafeteria ("help yourself style" service), light lunches, soda fountain and ice cream.

Frederick and his wife Catherine moved to the Hawke's Bay, and opened a new Rush Munro in central Hastings on 26 May 1926.

After the premises were destroyed in the devastating 1931 earthquake, they moved the business to a new site at 704 Heretaunga Street West, the shop evolving into the famous Rush Munro's Ice Cream Gardens.

More about Rush Munro's ...

 

Photo: Rush Munro, Karangahape Road, Auckland, 1923 (detail).
- Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries, 7-A15977

1919 - The Velvet Ice Cream Co Ltd., began operations in Hamilton.



1921 - 1930

1891 - 1910



Sources, references and related sites:

Archives New Zealand:
http://archives.govt.nz/

Auckland Libraries

National Library

NZ Ice Cream Assn. archives, and "Frostee Digest" journals, 1943-1972.

New Zealand Ice Cream Manufacturers' Association (NZICA) Oral History Project; held at NZICA archives and Alexander Turnbull Library.
- Shona McCahon, Oral historian.

Papers Past (National Library of New Zealand digitised newspapers database):
http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/

Robyn O'Leary - personal correspondence.

Rush Munro's:
www.rushmunro.co.nz


Back Back to The History of Ice Cream in New Zealand
Copyright © The New Zealand Ice Cream Association (Inc.)
PO Box 9364, Wellington,
NEW ZEALAND.
Website: www.nzicecreamandgelato.co.nz
E-mail: info@nzicecream.org.nz
Telephone +64 4 385 1410.